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Peru Part Seven: Hug the Llama
Excerpts from Day Eighgt of My Travel Journal

Post Date: 11/23/04
Original Journal Date: 11/05/04

11-05-Friday, Aquas Calientes, Machu Picchu
We had originally planned to get up at 6am and head on out Machu Picchu. That was also when we were planning to arrive in Aquas Calientes at 10pm the night before. So, needless to say, the time for departure got changed to 9am. At 8:30am, Joel knocked on the door to let Ho and I know that breakfast was ready. At the mention of breakfast, I realized I was not going to be ready to go any time soon. Any time soon at all.

So they all head up to the ruins. I am so sick that the hostel moves me into a single room at no extra charge so that I will not disturb people. This later proves to be a good move.

Joel tells this story. I woke up very early because something in my stomach felt so very wrong. I roll over, only to discover how sick and am, and Joel says later when telling the story, "All I heard was Jocelyn say, 'Ooooooh Nooooo,' and it was the lowest I'd ever heard her be." That is how sick I was. I spend the morning with a thermos of tea and a bed. But fortunately, around noon, I feel somewhat good enough to go catch the bus to Machu Picchu.

There are many times during this trip when things that otherwise seemed to be negative turned out to be happening for the best. Because I did not go with them at 9am, I missed out on some cool things like climbing towards the Moon Tower (though I would have been too sick to do that anyway). But what I did get to do was find a quiet spot near what apparently (I didn't know this at the time) was the graveyard. I sat there and looked out over the ruins and looked out over the mountains and wrote and thought and felt for two hours without a soul walking past me. It was so rare. There's really not a lot I can say about Machu Picchu that hasn't been said before. You can feel the energy, you can be awed by the construction, you can stand in wonder that people lived here for as long as they did. But there's really not a way to translate that experience back.

Do you know how Machu Picchu was discovered, because, you know, it spent years being covered and hidden by vegetation? There was a researcher, and he came to South America. And he went to the place where the oldest houses he knew were, and he asked the people who lived there, "Where are the oldest houses that you know of?" And then he went to where those houses were, and he asked those people, "Where are the oldest houses that you know of?" And this went on and on and on, until eventually he found the oldest houses of all at Machu Picchu.

You are also wondrous at how well the local Peruvians maintain Machu Picchu. Okay, in fairness, much of this has to do with the fact that an American has now turned much of this into a tourist event (argh), but the whole time we are there, they are working on preservation. It's impressive.

At 3pm, I meet back up with the group. They are relaying some information from the tour. I loved this series.

Lisa
And then up there, on either side is where the guard stations were located, and they would use mirrors to send light signals to communicate with each other.

Joel
But seriously, look around, who was attacking them? Seriously.

We stay as late as you can stay. We watch llamas fight on the upper terraces. Jutta and I try to hug a llama. It almost worked. We took photos, which you will all see in your Christmas cards. It is worth the wait. It is that good. That good.

I mean it, that good. I don't know what else to say. If you get a chance, if you believe you can overcome altitude sickness and bad water, you must go. I feel like I should write something earth-shattering and powerful about it, but I don't really want to over analyze being there. So just know that it really, really, really was all that and more. Even sick it was.

Dinner is not until 7pm, so we have some time when we get back to the bottom of the mountain. Lisa wants a massage, so that's what she does, though apparently it is not the world's greatest massage ever. Ho, Jutta, Joel and I decide that we will go to the hot springs for which the town is named. Hot springs, people. Real freaking hot springs. And more amazing than you can imagine because they are hot springs nestled between jungle mountains, and it's dusk, and a light, cool, rain forest rain is falling while we're there. People, imagine it with me. You're with three awesome friends, relaxing in the warm sulfer goodness of a hot springs bath in the middle of a brisk rain forest while the sun is going down and the sky is turning all purple and grey. You're playing games with two small Peruvian children who are using you to judge their contest about who can stay under water longer and you're talking with a British guy about politics. Sure, after you get out and have to walk back to your hostel in the rain, it's cold and your clothes are damp and you're uncomfortable, but it was so worth that moment in every single way. Perfect.

I tried to eat dinner that night. It just looked so good. Pumpkin soup and spaghetti and peaches. I made it through the soup and a few bites of pasta before I had to run for the bathroom. And then I didn't see anybody again until morning.

Tune in tomorrow for singing Brazilians and a trip to a Peruvian emergency room. It is that good.

But WHY do you keep trying to eat?

Hot springs, eh? Sounds kinda porno.