Ashleigh's Adventure In Africa: Sudan 7, Ash 0

Surprise surprise, there is an internet cafe in Dongola, where we find ourselves tonight and have a rest day in tomorrow. I wish I could tell you everything that has happened, but it's just too much. Here's a rundown of the big stuff. Long email warning.

In Sudan. Sudanese H A T E Americans. I think more to do with US-Eqypt friendship, but I am SO Canadian here. I tried out the "USA" in response to "Where are you from?" (million times a day "where are you from, what's your name") at a restaurant and the guy became irritated and refused to talk to me. Serious. Hate.

The people, when they think you are from Canada, are lovely. So different from Cairo - where everyone wanted money, and people age 0-99 hassle you all the time. Really lovely folks.

Not a single Chinese prisoner is to be found. I have already started composing my "Dear China" letter, in which I will tell them how very disappointed I am in their utter lack of progress.

Been riding in Sudan for 3 days. 3 of the most grueling, punishing, horrendous days of cycling ever. I'm talking sand pits that last for 60 feet, forcing you off the bike, slushing through with your bike all topsy turvy. You know that song "On top of spaghetti, all covered with cheese?" Sudan is like that -- "on top of a big rocky mountain all covered in sand."

It's cooler than last year, they say, but the heat. My god, the heat -- dry heat that bakes you from the outside in. Not to mention, "supported ride" here means you get 3 liters of water in the morning and that has to last you until lunch. Then you get 3 more liters and it has to get you to camp. The trucks pass you once -- you can thumbs down and they'll stop for you and give you whatever you need, but once they pass -- they are gone. So, if they pass you at 10k and you have lunch at 70k, you are out of luck if you need anything.

The days are longer than expected because our trucks were stuck in Sudanese customs an extra day -- so we lost 1 day to waiting. That has mean 70-80 mile rides in sand each day. I'm telling you -- I nearly got on the bus yesterday, with 20 miles to go, but the damn thing drove off before I got there. Happy about that now.

I borrowed a mountain bike yesterday (rider was not going to ride) because my lil' cyclocross bike has tires that are too thin (my fault -- who knew) and no suspension (I've never seen roads like these -- like a war zone -- very hard on the arms) so I can't get through the terrain. Having never been on a mountain bike, nor on trails/sand/rocky uneven mountains, I fell (ok, I fell 5 times day one in the sand, but managed to actually fall in sand so I have big bruises from hitting the bike but just a few bloody scratches) -- anyway, yesterday I went down hard right on a pile of gravel and hard sharp rocks (with a ton of kids watching -- sweet).

The result? Bruises, scabs and what they think is some pectorial muscle ripped off the bone (all together now ..."EWWWW") on my shoulder area. In short - it hurts. In shorter - still rode.

I am, however, the worst mountain biker ever -- which of course means when I get back I'm hanging up the slicks and getting on the mountain bike. Get out your knobby tires ready girls!

So, 7 falls total in Sudan. Both knees, both elbows. Ripped muscle. Ego shattered (well, that's pushing it). It's still early -- I can make it back.

What else can I tell you... Africa 911 is breaking up a bit (because of me). Josh is the strongest cyclist I've ever seen (sorry Toosh) so he's off in front. Harry is Mt.bike racer who has no problem getting on the bus when he's had enough. The others are way stronger than me, so there I am -- out there alone. I was the 3rd to last person in camp yesterday, 3rd to last only because I passed a woman and her husband on the side of the rode, where she sat sobbing and cramping and hoping to die. Yea, yea, I stopped, but I was pleased to not be the total last one... I hear it's paved to Khartoum now (I saw pavement today at mile 50 of a short day, and almost kissed the ground) so 911 will be back.

OHHH! TDA gossip. There is already a lovefest between the woman who was studying group dynamics and some German guy who has been training for 20 months. Kerri + Joachim = 1 tent! They moved in fast -- day 4, I think. It's the talk of our mobile community. Both lovely, but we shall see. Fragile group dynamics with 70 people living so closely together (too closely -- it's getting ridiculous). Will keep ya posted.

There is a couple here (remaining nameless of course -- Bernie and Barrel are their names) who wake up at like 5:30am and start talking at the top of their lungs like they're in their own kitchen. We are all trying to sleep until Wimpy (Vim-pee) starts playing music to wake us at 6:45 but B&B are chatting it up, hammering things. This morning's topic? The carpeting of their church. I'm waiting for someone to explode in rage.

And I guess that's about it. Since we have a rest day tomorrow, I'll probably manage to send you another long drawn out email. For now, it's pray o'clock, getting dark and I have left my male guardians at the restaurant (they say we girls shouldn't go out alone without a prostate --- lame) so I best be heading back to camp. Did I mention we are staying in the Dongola Zoo? True that, people. The zoo has 1 remaining habitant -- Teddy the tortoise. Haven't seen him yet but I hear he's around.

Love to all!

ash